Acrylic bathtub or steel? How to choose the right bath and not overpay

Which bathtub is better, acrylic or steel? What are the pros and cons of these materials? How to care for them? What characteristics should you look for when choosing a model? Let's figure it out.

Acrylic bathtub - what is it?

Not all acrylic bathtubs are truly acrylic. In fact, they are made from:

• ABS plastic;
• actually acrylic.

The quality of the products varies greatly.

ABS products

ABS is the most common plastic. The manufacturer casts a bathtub from reinforcement material, applies thick plastic on top, and then sprays acrylic on top. The spraying thickness is no more than 0.5 mm.

The plastic bathtub has a glossy white surface and a very attractive price - 2 times lower than that of its “competitors”. But a thin layer of acrylic is unreliable. It cracks due to temperature changes, is easily scratched and chipped.If the manufacturer skimps on the technological process, after a few months the acrylic layer will begin to peel off.

But ABS plastics are not designed for contact with hot water. ABS contains the toxic component styrene. When exposed to temperature, ABS plastic releases toxic substances that dissolve well in water and then enter the body through the skin.

In addition, plastic products are thin and do not hold heat well. In 5 minutes, the water in such a bath loses 1 degree of heat.

And yet, the seller will call such a model acrylic and is unlikely to tell you about the disadvantages of the product.

In reviews, buyers recommend looking at the edges of the bathtub. If you see 3 layers on the cut, refuse to buy - it's definitely ABS. But not everyone can see the thin acrylic layer, so the chance of making a mistake is quite high.

Advice. If you don’t want surprises, check what material the bathtub is made of and ask for a certificate.

Acrylic products

Aka polymethyl methacrylate, aka acrylic glass, aka PMMA. This is a dense material with excellent moisture resistance, designed specifically for the manufacture of plumbing fixtures.

Bathtub made of PMMA is two-layer. The base of the product is made of durable, environmentally friendly and safe resin. And on top the manufacturer applies a layer of acrylic - but not 0.5 mm, but at least 5-6. This coating does not peel off, is not afraid of temperature changes and “stands impact” well.

But even if you break the top layer of acrylic, the water in the bathtub will not become toxic. There is no styrene in the resins used as a base.

And one more significant advantage. The water in an acrylic bathtub will cool by 1 degree in 30 minutes - this is 6 times slower than in a cheap plastic one.

The only disadvantage of such models is the price.A good acrylic bathtub of a classic shape costs about 10 thousand rubles. If you want the original model, the price will increase 2-3 times. And the most sophisticated models with a jacuzzi, comfortable seats, and several methods of water supply will cost 200 thousand - and this is not the limit.

Let’s make a reservation: in the future we will call acrylic products made from PMMA.

Steel baths

Metal baths are made from:

• structural steel;
• stainless steel

These models differ in both price and quality.

Structural steel

Technologically, the process looks simple: the manufacturer takes a thin sheet of metal and “stamps” it with a press. The hot steel takes the desired shape - and that’s it, the bath is ready.

But ordinary steel rusts when it comes into contact with water, which means it needs to be coated with enamel. At the factory, this process is carried out in special chambers under high temperature and pressure.

If a master promises you to restore chipped enamel “exactly as it was” - don’t believe it. This is impossible.

Stainless steel

Stainless steel products are made on the same principle as inexpensive steel ones. A sheet of metal is formed using a press and a bath is obtained. The process stops here. Stainless steel models are not covered with enamel, there is no point in that. Stainless steel is not afraid of water, does not darken, is not afraid of shocks and temperature changes, and is resistant to cleaning agents.

The only disadvantage of such models is that they are inconvenient to care for. Limescale and soap streaks on stainless steel are clearly visible, so every time someone washes, the bathtub will have to be polished until it shines.

Another problem is the range and prices. It is difficult to find a stainless steel bathtub - they are not available in regular stores. If you want just such a model, you will have to order it from the factory.And this purchase will cost 80-100 thousand. The thicker the metal, the higher the cost.

Since such models are very rare, we will not include them in the comparison.

Thermal insulation

High-quality acrylic holds temperature well: water loses temperature at a rate of 1 degree in 30 minutes.

Water in a steel bowl cools much faster: 1 degree in 5 minutes.

This argument is used by all opponents of metal models. But the trick is that the water releases most of the temperature from the surface, along with the steam. This means that the difference between the two models is not that big. If an acrylic bathtub turns from hot to warm in 30 minutes, then a steel bathtub will take 20.

Thermal insulation: acrylic – 1, metal – 1.

Safety

The only danger that awaits you in a metal bathroom is that you can slip and fall. To prevent this from happening, place a special silicone mat on the bottom and secure handrails to the wall.

The acrylic bowl, by the way, is also slippery, so the chances of getting injured are equal.

But acrylic models can be of high quality, but they can also be of poor quality. If you've been given an ABS bathtub, you'll soon run into problems with cracking - and the water will begin to leach toxins out of the plastic. This will not happen with metal, even if you buy the cheapest model.

Safety: acrylic – 0, metal – 1.

Tendency to deformation

Some users claim that metal bowls “walk” under the weight of the body—they bend and sag. But the thickness of a standard steel bath is 3.4 mm. It cannot bend under the weight of the body; it’s not a tin can.

The feeling of plasticity occurs because the bathtub was installed incorrectly. The bowl wobbles and sways, and it seems to the person that the metal is bending. This is actually an illusion.

The acrylic bowl also feels “soft.” And this is also an illusion. Plastic is not as hard as metal, and it is also warmer to the touch. There is a feeling that the bathtub sags under load. In reality this does not happen. The standard thickness of a PMMA bowl is 8 mm, and don’t forget about the reinforcing layer! Acrylic bathtubs do not bend.

The only thing in which PMMA is inferior to metal is its sensitivity to high temperatures. Acrylic melts at 160 ^OC. If you drop a very hot object into the bowl, the polymer will melt. This will not happen with metal. And therefore...

Strength: acrylic – 0, metal – 1.

Durability

A high-quality PMMA bowl will last from 10 to 12 years. The service life of an iron bath set by the manufacturer is 15 years. Three years more.

Of course, an acrylic bowl can be restored - unlike a steel one. Still, the iron will last longer.

Durability: acrylic – 0, metal – 1.

Which is easier to clean?

PMMA is a polymer, which means it is sensitive to aggressive environments. Plastic is easy to scratch, so you should not use products with abrasives. Including natural ones, based on sand, ash or calcium.

Products with alcohol or solvents are also not suitable - they react with polymers. At best, the bathtub will have untidy stains and rough areas. At worst, you will wash off the acrylic layer and have to call a professional.

To care for PMMA bowls, only special products are used.

There is no such problem with enameled metal. You can use any cleaning products, except very aggressive ones. But you're not going to wipe the bathtub with paint remover, are you?

Easy to care for: acrylic – 0, metal – 1.

Maintainability

It's sad but true: acrylic bathtubs break.Yes, they are stronger than ABS products, but a polymer is a polymer. If you drop something very heavy on acrylic, it will crack. Breaking a steel model is not a trivial task. You can bend the bowl, chip the enamel, even scratch the metal. But still, the bath will remain a bath, and you can wash in it. But acrylic models can be repaired!

If you just scratched the coating, the technician will sand it using a special tool.

Do not try to remove uneven surfaces with sandpaper yourself - you will only make the situation worse.

If you chipped acrylic or broke a bowl, the master will fill the damage with acrylic. This is not the cheapest procedure, but the result is guaranteed. The bowl will be as good as new.

Repairing a chip on a steel model is much more difficult. Apply the enamel under the right conditions: under pressure and oven-dried. It is impossible to reproduce such conditions at home. Damage can simply be painted over - many consumers are happy with this. Of course, homemade enamel will be many times worse, but it can be renewed, and at the same time change the color of the product.

There are metal models coated with acrylic. They look like enamel, but they don't feel as cold and hard to the touch. Chips in acrylic coating can simply be filled.

Maintainability: acrylic – 1, metal – 0.

Sustainability

Everything is sad here. Both the steel and acrylic models are very lightweight. Sit on the side and the bathtub will tip over. Place a full bucket on the edge and the bathtub will tip over. If you slip on a wet floor and grab the edge... Well, you get the idea.

To prevent this from happening, the bowl is installed on special mounts. Many manufacturers include them with bathtubs along with removable legs.If the set does not include fasteners, you can buy, order, or make them yourself - it’s just a frame made of wood or metal. It is securely fixed to the floor, placed inside the bathtub and the structure is sewn up with a decorative covering.

If desired, you can line the internal cavities with thermal insulation - the water will cool much more slowly.

Advice. Use a material that is not afraid of moisture - for example, mineral wool.

The second option: use the internal cavities as shelves. You can put basins, detergents, and spare slippers there.

Resistance: acrylic – 0, metal – 0.

Breadth of the model range

Here acrylic models have no competition. The bowl can be anything: angular, round, or even a flower. With protrusions for the seat, with palm rests, with a headrest... This is a forming of rolled steel, but a casting. Liquid acrylic takes any shape.

Some manufacturers produce models according to individual orders, and here the scope is not limited even by the catalog of finished products. If you are planning a grand renovation in your bathroom, acrylic is your choice.

Steel bathtubs have a classic rectangular shape. Sometimes - corner. And absolutely exotic - round bowls. The choice is small.

Wide choice: acrylic – 1, steel – 0.

Price: comparison of similar models

A standard rectangular PMMA bathtub 10 cm long costs about 5 thousand rubles. Same size, but metal – 3.5 thousand.

A super-quality metal bowl will cost you 500-600 thousand rubles. Premium acrylic bathtubs cost about 1.5 million rubles.

In any case, a metal bowl of similar characteristics will cost you 2-3 times less.

Price: acrylic – 0, steel – 1.

Possibilities for modification

A steel bowl is made according to a template: container, top drain, bottom drain.And this is ironclad - pardon the pun. If you want to cut additional holes for water supply or otherwise change the model, you will encounter enormous difficulties.

An acrylic bathtub can be modified. Another question: why, because you can order a model according to your own sketch. But you can still cut additional holes in the acrylic, and the bowl will not lose its qualities.

Possibility of modification: acrylic – 1, steel – 0.

Pros and Cons: Pivot Table

In this table we have collected all the differences between a steel and acrylic bowl. Read, choose, think.

So what should you choose?

First, decide on your priorities.

If you prefer reliable, durable models with “set it and forget it” characteristics, a steel bowl is your choice. Simple, cheap, cheerful. And there are no complaints about the appearance: classic is classic. It will fit into any interior.

Do you like comfort and original design solutions? Then take acrylic. Warm, pleasant to the touch material, hundreds of models in catalogs - and this is not counting models for individual projects.

Advice.If you have a small bathroom, a custom PMMA bowl is the perfect solution.

By changing the standard shape of the model, you can squeeze it anywhere without giving up the usual conveniences. The bathtub will stand in a corner, fit between the washing machine and the washbasin, and occupy a free spot in the middle of the room. And to maintain the volume of the bowl, simply increase the height of the sides. The choice of options is limited only by your imagination.

How to choose a steel bath

The main criterion is the wall thickness. The bigger, the better. The thick-walled bowl is durable, better maintains the water temperature and does not move under the weight of the body.

The standard thickness of the bathtub walls is 3 mm. This is provided that a person of average weight will swim in it. If you are choosing a model for a tall, large man, look for a bowl with walls of 4 mm or higher.

Measuring the thickness of metal with a caliper is useless. You can measure metal only on sections: on the sides or on the drains. But there the sheet of steel was subjected to additional impact, which means it was slightly flattened. This means that the thickness of the cut may not correspond to the thickness of the walls or bottom. Therefore, focus on the manufacturer. Choose proven brands and buy models in the mid-price segment. In this case, the risk of fraud is reduced to a minimum.

The second important factor is the quality of the enamel. It should be even and smooth. Dark spots, bumps, streaks, sagging – a definite “no”. If the manufacturer cannot properly paint the product, what is there to talk about?

Another categorical disadvantage is chips on the enamel. Stores usually offer discounts on such products. Don't agree! You'll save a couple thousand, but you'll have a lot of problems. A bowl with damaged enamel will begin to rust.Brown spots will appear on the surface, and over time the coating next to the chip will begin to peel off. The service life of such a product will be reduced by 5 years - and then what is the point of the purchase?

How to choose an acrylic bathtub

The most important point: do not buy an ABS bowl. We've already talked about this, but just in case we'll repeat it.

To distinguish ABS from high-quality PMMA, look at the cut of the side. If you see 3 layers, it’s definitely ABS.

But it's better to ask for a certificate. Even Hawkeye can make mistakes.

Have you chosen a PMMA cup? Now estimate the thickness of the acrylic layer. It should be at least 3 mm, but the more, the better. The ideal option is 6 mm and above.

Carefully examine the inner surface of the bowl: it should be even and smooth. If the acrylic coating lies in swells, this is a definite defect.

On some models you can feel roughness - and the seller will swear that this is a special anti-slip coating. Don't believe it. Anti-slip coating really exists - by the way, it increases the price of the product. But it feels completely smooth to the touch. It just creates good adhesion to the skin, so it doesn’t slip. And roughness is defects or scratches that the bowl received during transportation. Over time, dirt will clog up there, which will become a real sanctuary for bacteria.

Another important factor is the quality of the reinforcing layer. The stronger it is, the more reliable the structure. A good bowl has 4 or more reinforcing layers.

The visual criterion is still the same: the thicker the better. But there is a problem: some manufacturers deliberately thicken the reinforced layer on the edges to create the illusion of reliability. Therefore, run your hand along the outer surface of the bowl. If you feel that the wall is gradually thinning, refuse the purchase.

There are more reliable methods, but you will have to tinker a little.

Experiment 1

Just press (but don't hit!) your hand on the wall. She shouldn't react to pressure. If the seller prohibits you from this experiment, think about it. The bathtub must be able to support the weight of an adult. And you just press with your palm - which means you physically cannot damage the bowl. Or you can - if it is as thick as an eggshell. And the seller knows this very well.

Experiment 2

Ask your companion to shine a powerful flashlight into the bottom of the bowl. And at this moment you fold your palms into a “cup” - as if you are looking through an imaginary telescope - and place them on the opposite side of the bottom. Bend over, press your eye to your hands and look. If you see a light spot, it means the bottom is translucent. That is, the reinforced layer is too thin.

Pay special attention to the bathtub frame. It should be smooth, strong, without visible problem joints. High-quality models have exactly 4 legs. If the manufacturer offers 6 or 8 stops, it means that he knows: the bowl will “walk”.

But this rule applies only to rectangular models. Corner, round or fancy bowls can have any number of legs, even odd ones.